| Our towns: Kuala Lumpur |
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| Wednesday, 28 November 2007 | |
  Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Kuala Lumpur is hot in more ways than one. Sitting just 350 km above the equator, it is truly tropical with a monsoon season and hot, humid days and nights. The city is a mix of old, new and futuristic. With a city skyline dominated by the famous Petronas Towers and their less famous cousin The KL Tower, and sitting in a bowl surrounded by mountainous jungle, KL affords a unique skyline. Modern offices, hotels, malls and apartment blocks jostle for attention in the Golden Triangle whilst old fashioned shop houses and colonial buildings show that KL remains a collection of villages with an individual character. KL is one of the world's most eclectic cities: within the city boundaries you can find Malay, Chinese and Indian districts, each with their own character. But unlike many cities, these are not ghettos – the vast majority of Malaysians are oblivious to colour and race and everyone is welcome everywhere. From the Philharmonic Concert Hall at the base of the Twin Towers to buskers at street stalls, you will be in the company of politicians, captains of industry and the ordinary hard working people of KL in a city where the primary leveller is food. For Malaysians love to eat, and they love to eat well. People commonly drive long distances across the city to visit a particular noodle stall, sitting on plastic stools on the pavement to enjoy the treat. One thing to learn about Malaysia: eat and drink local and you will rarely be dissatisfied with price, quality or quantity. But that's not to say that if you want world class restaurant surroundings you would be short changed. KL has some of South East Asia's best dining, both formal and informal, in restaurants, bars and hotels. KL is famous for being one of the world's most cost-effective destinations. And it's true. Check out our Hotel Booking service to find out the amazing prices for staying in first class hotels right in the heart of the city. For families accompanying delegates, KL has extensive shopping and visitor attractions. During Visit Malaysia Year 2007, there is the Eye on Malaysia – a huge wheel with a firework display every night. In the city confines, there is the Beryl Chocolate Museum (you might wonder why we suggest this but there's a very good reason – Beryl's Chocolate is the only chocolate manufactured in South East Asia that compares with UK manufactured Cadbury's and also they satisfy the twin cravings of caffeine and chocolate with choc-covered coffee beans), the Royal Selangor Pewter factory and visitor centre, several national museums, a zoo and library, Batu Caves and of course the bridge linking the two Petronas Towers as seen in many films and TV programmes.
Entry Visas
Visas: to check current visa requirements, check the website of your local Malaysian Embassy / High Commission or visit http://www.imi.gov.my/eng/im_Page1.asp
For those that do not require a visa, you will be issued a “Social Visit Pass” on arrival. This covers attending business meetings, conferences and training courses. You will require an immigration card which you must complete prior to arrival at the immigration desk. Ask your aircrew for one and complete it in the comfort of your seat to avoid inconvenience and delay in the terminal.
Arriving in Kuala Lumpur by air.
On the plane: if you are travelling in business or first class – ask your cabin crew for a priority lane pass for immigration. If there are none available, keep your boarding pass with your passport.
All passengers: ask the cabin crew for a landing card. All arriving passengers are required to fill in this form. Part is retained in your passport until departure; part is for handing to customs on arrival.
In the airport.
There are three terminals at Kuala Lumpur International Airport.
1. International (“Satellite”) Terminal.
This terminal is where all long hall international flights arrive, and most regional flights. Some regional flights, however, do arrive at the domestic terminal (see below).
From the arrivals gate, turn to the central hub of the terminal and follow the signs for the train to the main terminal. Trolleys are available at the arrivals gates but are not allowed on the trains. There are many toilet facilities between the gates and the train.
When you get off the train, turn left. In front of you there is a lift and two escalators going down. Take either one, and walk straight ahead to immigration. If you do not have a completed landing card, locate one and fill it in before queuing for immigration.
For first / business class passengers there is a fast-track gate.
For APEC card holders, there is a dedicated gate.
There are separate zones for holders of Malaysian and foreign passports. However, at times, when the foreign queues are long and all Malaysians have passed, the officers will generally call foreign passport holders to the Malaysian desks so keep an eye open for the call.
After immigration, walk through the shopping area to immigration baggage reclaim. If your airline did not announce the belt that your luggage will appear on, check on the monitors.
NOTE: if you intend to use the Airport Express Train (see below) to travel to the city, you can purchase your ticket (RM35 each way) from the desk before baggage reclaim.
Generally, KLIA's efficient baggage reclaim means that the first bags are on the belt by the time the first passengers arrive in the reclaim area.
There is an ATM and there are several bureaux de change in the area before baggage reclaim. You will need local currency to purchase a ticket for the high speed train.
After reclaim, exit through Customs. There are routine checks on random bags including x-rays.
Notes:
After Customs, you will be in a “glass house.” In that glass house, you may
2. Domestic (“Main”) terminal.
Our current record from the door of the plane opening to being being in the destination in the heart of the city is 49 minutes (admittedly with hand luggage only).
From the arrivals gate, follow the signs for immigration. It can be a long walk depending on your gate. Trolleys are available at the arrivals gates. Walk through the shopping area and go up the escalator to baggage reclaim.
You can buy a ticket for the airport express train just before baggage reclaim.
After baggage reclaim your bags may be x-rayed in an internal customs inspection.
Getting from KLIA to the City.
There are five alternatives:
“Executive Service” Hotel car Airport car Airport Express train (and taxi to hotel) Coach.
“Executive Service”
This service is booked in the international arrivals section after immigration and before baggage reclaim. It includes a personal porter who collects your bags; you both travel by train to KL Central terminal where he puts your bags into a Mercedes for the last leg of your journey to your hotel or other city destination. This service generally costs less than a hotel car and is generally quicker, especially in poor weather or if there is heavy traffic.
Hotel car:
Hotel cars are generally expensive compared to other means of transport. As KL is a safe city, the usual reason for arranging a hotel car – that is security – is much reduced. Some hotels include one-way car journey in the price if you book a certain class of room for a minimum of, usually, three nights. Check when booking.
Airport Car: there are three classes of car.
The most expensive are Jaguars. The second are Mercedes The third (“budget”) are generally Renault Espace or similar.
Recommendation: use a budget car.
Once you have a ticket, you queue (gate 7 for premium, gate 3 for budget). There are rarely long queues.
You can pay by cash or credit card.
The journey to the city takes about 50 minutes, if there are no jams. If it's raining, taking a car is a bad idea because there will be bad traffic.
IMPORTANT: do not take a car from any of the touts who illegally hound passengers outside the glass house. If you forget to get a car ticket, then there is another car service counter to your right immediately in front of the domestic arrivals doorway.
High Speed Train.
If you have bought your ticket prior to baggage reclaim, then simply go to the lift to the platform. Overhead signs (purple) guide you. There are no ticket barriers at KLIA.
The train leaves every 15 minutes. The journey to the KL Central City Air Terminal takes 28 minutes.
On the way, you will pass (on your right) the new Federal Capital (Putrajaya) which has some extraordinary architecture. It is built on land reclaimed from extensive mining operations.
On arrival at KL CAT, use a lift or escalator to the arrivals hall. Your ticket will be retained at the automatic barrier. There is a pay desk for those who managed to walk past all the opportunities to get a ticket!
From KL CAT there are three ways to your hotel:
Taxi (prepaid – get a budget taxi for MYR10, approx.) We recommend using a taxi. Note: there are two types of taxi: budget and premium. A premium taxi will cost double the price of a budget taxi but frankly there is not much to choose between the two.
Monorail (the Monorail station is a three minute walk outside and is not recommended for first-time visitors or those with luggage. The Monorail is not suitable for those with disabilities due to the almost total absence of lifts on the system, the lack of down escalators and lack of audible systems to aid the sight-impaired). Having said that, the Monorail does go to much of the primary hotel district and for those familiar with the city is an excellent way of getting around.
LRT (the excellent tube system). The LRT platforms are within the same building as the KL CAT. Follow the signs. Although convenient, we do not recommend it for first time visitors, or those with luggage or disabilities. However, at peak times, or in the case of bad weather, if your hotel is close to an LRT station, this is a useful option.
Check with your hotel if there is a convenient LRT station.
(it is possible to combine LRT and Monorail but the system is not well integrated and this is not recommended for first time visitors or those with luggage or disabilities).
3. Low Cost Carrier Terminal.
With an estimated six million passengers due to travel through KL's LCC terminal in 2007, it's a reasonable assumption that at least some of our delegates will arrive this way. There are frequent flights from all over the region with many carriers.
The LCCT provides basic services. There are no “airbridges” - that is walkways from plane to terminal – limited catering and shopping facilities and no direct access to the high-speed train.
However, there are frequent and inexpensive buses to KLIA proper (and therefore to the train) and to the city. Buses also run to KL Central CAT (see above) and passengers can route to their hotels from there using the systems described above.
Arriving in KL by bus.
For travellers from Singapore, many people prefer to use one of the excellent express bus services. If you are in transit in Singapore airport, then there is nothing to be gained – but if you are in Singapore city, then point to point time difference is only about an hour and incredibly the “hassle factor” is less.
There are many services and we could not list them all here. But if you are staying in Singapore, your hotel concierge will be able to tell you which one leaves from nearest your hotel. All stop within KL's Golden Triangle except the Nice service which stops about two kilometres outside that district – but also starts from outside the central Singapore district. However, usually, that is our own service of choice.
Getting around KL Not long ago, KL had a public transport system that was simply dismal. Within the past five years, it has seen a revolution. The KLIA Express provides a frequent, reliable and fast connection to the airport. The LRT system (the tube) connects KL Central and many parts of the city with a clean, quick and reliable service. The Rapid Transit trains provide a commuter service to many points in the city with several interchanges with the LRT The Monorail snakes through the city and is a very convenient and quick way of getting around although its interchanges with other services are poor and it is not suitable for anyone with any form of physical disability. The Rapid KL bus system has undergone the biggest change. New and renovated buses are now clean and comfortable with large signs setting out their destinations. In the city district, a single MYR2 ticket is a one-day rover ticket allowing unlimited travel (so don't lose it!). The bus is useful to connect the various rail systems. Taxis are a constant source of problems for the authorities, residents and tourists alike. Many are honest and competent but a small percentage give the others a bad name. There are a few basic rules – don't get in a taxi that is hovering outside a hotel or a shopping complex – they will demand a fee that far exceeds the meter rate; don't get in a taxi that hoots at you as you are walking – these will almost always demand a fee that far exceeds the metered rate. Within the Golden Triangle, most honest taxis will charge fares of between MYR3 and MYR5. If a driver asks for significantly more, he is breaking the law by refusing to use his meter and he is stealing from you. But remember – most drivers are honest, you just have to be prepared for the few that are not. The Golden Triangle area is quite small and it is easy to walk from one side to the other in about fifteen minutes. But hardly anyone walks in KL because it is so hot and muggy. With humidity levels consistently above 80% and temperatures generally in the mid 30s C, walking inevitably means arriving at your destination in a rather sweaty state. Also, pavements are often not even, kerbs are high, much of the pavement is made up with tiles that can become slippery for leather-soled shoes or in the rain. There are almost no suitable routes for those with walking sticks or wheelchairs, and no audible warnings at crossings for the blind. Crossing roads can be hazardous as KL drivers are unpredictable and motorcyclists are downright dangerous, ignoring all road traffic laws and even riding along pavements at speed. Lastly, although not a major problem, there are cases of bag snatching especially in areas frequented by tourists and expatriates. We emphasise that this risk should not be overstated but sensible precautions should be taken. Documentation You are required to carry identification documents at all times. However, for safety although officially not acceptable, it is probably better to keep your passport safe in your hotel and to carry a photocopy to produce if required. Down Time
Kuala Lumpur (known by all as KL) is the capital city of Malaysia, lying at broadly the centre of the Malayan Peninsular. Surrounded by mountains and jungle, KL has a fascinating mix of people and architecture. The centre of KL is known as “The Golden Triangle.” This is an area bounded by North: KLCC – where the famous Petronas Towers dominate the skyline East: Jalan Imbi – where the notorious Pudu Jail used to house serious criminals West: Jalan Ampang – one of the city's main arteries South: Jalan Pudu – where the city's main bus terminal is situated.
Within the Golden Triangle, you will find the shopping districts of Bukit Bintang (the Malay for Star Hill) which includes the latest additions to KL's luxury shopping experiences at Star Hill Gallery and Pavillion plus the existing centres of KL Plaza, Lot 10 and Sungei Wang (“Golden River” in Malay) which are mainly for clothes. There's the upmarket shopping of KLCC under the Twin Towers, the technology centres of Low Yat Plaza and Imbi Plaza plus Times Square which is a more broad based mall. The city is a foodies' haven. Yes, you can get western fast food – but why would you want to? KL has excellent restaurants at prices that are surprisingly affordable – and in the Golden Triangle, it would be difficult to think of a cuisine that is not represented. Hotels are remarkably affordable – and an absolute bargain compared to almost any other capital city you can think of. Most hotel restaurants are halal although some have some non-halal restaurant. The Federal and The Swiss Garden, for example, both have good non-halal Chinese restaurants whilst their other outlets are halal. Many restaurants in KL are pork-free but do not seek halal status because to do so would preclude the sale of wine. Outside the hotels, the range of available foods is truly surprising. In Chengkat Tong Shin (alongside the south end of Bukit Bintang) you will find Indian / Pakistani, Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese plus several Chinese coffee shops serving chicken and pork dishes of the highest quality. Chengkat Tong Shin runs into Tengkat Bukit Bintang. Turning left into that road will lead you to a French country restaurant (just off Tengkat Bukit Bintang), a Japanese fusion restaurant, two European restaurants specialising in pork dishes, a Lebanese restaurant, an English pub, an English garden bar, a fine dining French restaurant and three Italian restaurants of differing styles of cooking plus a variety of other less defined but nevertheless fine places to eat. In Jalan Raja Chulan, Carmen's is a seafood restaurant and bar where bankers, politicians and international businessmen meet at lunchtime and over early evening drinks. Above that is the nearest KL has to a Hong Kong Chinese restaurant, Marco Polo (non-halal). In Bukit Bintang itself, several middle eastern restaurants serve a wide range of foods from the region. Alongside Bukit Bintang is Jalan Alor: this is where the locals eat. Guidebooks call it “Food Street” but no locals know it by that name! Here you will find Malay, Mamak (Indian / Malay) and Chinese food stalls 24 hours a day many serving outstanding food at prices that many travellers find hard to believe. You can feast on some of the best food you will ever eat for a remarkably small sum – provided you don't mind eating a plastic table on the pavement. And don't be surprised to see cars with official badges and special number plates pulling up – Malaysia is totally egalitarian when it comes to food – if it's good, the chairman of a bank might well be sitting at the table next to a messenger from his company.
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